A laptop is connected to the access point via a PoE adapter, while the long Ethernet cable connects much of the equipment that will go inside the case. If it doesn’t work the first time, start removing equipment to simplify things, or start with what used to work and gradually change things. For example, first use the original power supply and a standard Ethernet cable, and add the external antenna.

If possible, connect the AP to the Internet in its final software configuration. Then try to surf via a wireless connection.When you’re done testing, you can be confident that the hardware and software setup all work before you start cutting metal and climbing on rooftops.

Place the access point and PoE adapter into the case and arrange them for best ventilation and fit. Then add the internal cables and confirm that it still fits. It may be better to replace a supplied cable with a shorter version, especially for stiff Ethernet cables. As shown in Figure 8-16, lay out all the parts before modifying the case to ensure everything fits. All cables should exit the case at the bottom to help stop water from entering.

Next, add the pigtail and outside Ethernet cable. The pigtail may be thick and stiff, so anticipate carefully where it will run. It is important to have all cables exit from the bottom of the case. This stops water from running down the cable and into the case.

When everything is in place and connected, then you can plan where the holes will go. If the fit is snug enough for everything in the plastic food container, leave the access point and PoE adapter loose in the enclosure. This will eliminate the need for extra holes and mounting hardware.

You can remove the access point electronics from its plastic case to reduce the space needed and enhance cooling. However, this may void the warranty, and you have to be extremely careful that no metal touches the electronics.

Be sure to plan for the case mounting to the pole or wall as well. If bolts will protrude into the case, as shown previously in Figure 8-9, make sure the equipment will still fit. When everything is in place, mark the case carefully to show where holes and mounting points are located. Then you’re ready to start drilling and cutting.

The plastic case is easy to modify using simple tools like a drill and small handsaw. First drill holes in the case where the cables will pass through (see Figure 8-17). Make sure your drill bit matches the cable thickness. The cable should be snug, but not pinched. Any extra gap can be filled with sealant.

With a plastic case, you can cheat a bit and cut a line down to the holes. The plastic is flexible enough to bend and allow the cables to pass down to the hole via the cut. If you’re using a metal or thick molded plastic case, you have a few options:

If the enclosure is larger than the plastic box shown here, you may need to mount the equipment directly inside the box. The plastic box shown is already snug and there’s no exposed electronics, so no mounting is needed. Condensation can form on the inside of a metal case during changing temperatures, so mount equipment away from the walls to avoid water running onto the electronics. Another reason to

1. Mount the case on the pole

2. Mount the antenna on the pole

3. Connect the lightning arrestor, antenna, and pigtail

4. Make the connectors watertight

5. Zip tie the cables, leaving drip loops (drip loops give water a place from which to fall)

Mount the case on the pole and then mount the antenna using the instructions that came with your antenna and its mounting hardware. Add the lightning protector between the antenna and pigtail and attach the bare copper grounding wire. (See Figure 8-19.)

Screw the lightning protector into your antenna connector and then attach the pigtail to the other side of the lightning protector. Add the 8 gauge grounding wire to the lightning protector and run it down the pole with your other cables. As you work with the cables, be sure to add so-called “drip loops.” These are loops in the cable where rain will naturally drip off instead of running down the cable and inside connectors or cases. See Figure 8-20 for an example of a drip loop. This simple cabling trick keeps water from pouring down onto the connectors.

Anatomy of a drip loop:

For most installations, standard electrical tape will work great for waterproofing (see Figure 8-21). Apply the tape liberally by wrapping from the bottom to the top with lots of overlap. You may need to remove and reinstall some of your cable ties to do this properly.

Applying the electrical tape from bottom to top helps stop rain from creeping under the edges and loosening the tape over time.

For extreme weather conditions, there are lots of exotic waterproof solutions, including waxes, glue-like materials, and layers of different types of tape. Search online for waterproof connector tape to find a solution that meets your needs and budget. When you’re all done, stand back and admire the beauty of your creation. (See Figure 8-22.)

There are just two steps left before climbing on the roof.Temperature testing ensures that the access point electronics stay within tolerable limits. If things run too hot, frequent errors and lockups can occur, and the lifespan of your equipment will be diminished.

Test for water tightness in the optimal working conditions: while it’s dry and sunny. Your nerves will be rattled enough worrying about the equipment in a rain storm, even if you know it passed water tests on the ground.

Look carefully at your access point. Chances are, there are ventilation slots in its case. These are designed to encourage a convection flow of air to cool the electronics. Now that it is enclosed in your outdoor case, it won’t be cooled as originally intended, so you need to see if the box needs ventilation holes.

Plastic cases tend to get hotter inside than metal cases. The metal walls drain heat from air inside the case, which keeps it closer to the outside air temperature. For the same reason, it’s important for the metal case to be a light color. A black case can get very hot and makes it hot inside. For a great demonstration of this, touch a black car and a white car that have both been in the sun for a while.

Here’s how to temperature-test your case:

If you can read the temperature without removing the thermometer, you’ll see when it reaches a steady state and you can stop. Otherwise, a few hours should be enough.

If the box gets too hot, then add cooling holes in a way that keeps the box dry inside. You could start by adding an open hole at the bottom. Then if water does find its way in, it will eventually drain out.

Another way to cool a plastic box is via the mounting bolts that go through to the mast. Screw a heat sink to those bolts on the inside of the case. This will transfer heat from inside air to the outside mast via the metal fittings. The heat sink can be as simple as a piece of scrap metal that fills the entire bottom of your case. See Figure 8-23 for an example.

When it’s running at a good temperature in the shade, move it to an environment that matches your final location, such as in the sun. Then repeat the test steps and confirm that it’s still okay.

If the box won’t stay cool enough, some possibilities are:

Now the final step, will the box stay dry inside? Grab a bucket of water, dunk it, and find out—no wait, just kidding!

Seriously, it is useful to see how watertight your box is, but you need to do it the right way. A garden hose on a gentle spray setting is a good way to start, or under a shower nozzle. Be sure to simulate rain by holding it above your case and then leave it there for several minutes before checking. Place toilet paper in your case before testing to provide a fast visual indication that all is still dry. Leave everything powered off while you’re doing these tests.

Gradually increase the test length until you get to 20 or 30 minutes of gentle spray. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done when you retrieve your nice dry toilet paper afterwards. Congratulations!

If the case leaks, find a tube of outdoor sealant at your local hardware store and apply appropriately. Realize that when you seal, it blocks cooling, so it’s prudent to retest your operating temperature if you need to add a lot of sealant. Repeat until dry.

Make sure that all electrical equipment is completely dry before you apply power. Expect 30 minutes or more (depending on the weather) for the slow effects of evaporation to dry out electrical equipment.

After all the assembly and testing, everything is ready to go. Find a nice safe ladder and mount your new outdoor access point. Run the Ethernet cable back inside the house, plug it into the PoE adapter and confirm that everything is working.

Some areas receive frequent lightning strikes. Before mounting your access point outside in such an area, find some local person who understands grounding and follow his or her advice. Local amateur radio operators are a great source of information, as are TV or cable installers. Your local fire department can also provide information and resources.

Last, but not least, find a good ground for the lightning protector grounding cable. The 8 gauge copper wire should be run via the most direct route possible to a ground rod. Ground rods should be either solid copper, copper-clad steel, hot-dipped galvanized steel or stainless steel. They shouldn’t be smaller than 8 feet in length and 1/2 inch in diameter.

You’ll need fittings designed for grounding to connect everything together. Ground your case (using the same wire) if it is metal. You may be able to use a metal water pipe in place of a ground rod. Clean the pipe with a wire brush to expose bare metal and use a fitting designed for grounding to attach the ground wire to the pipe.

Complete grounding protection advice is beyond the scope of this book. Search online for “antenna grounding lightning guide” for more information. Some useful starting places are:

www.qsl.net/ccarc/light.html

www.polyphaser.com/ppc_pen_home.asp

With grounding completed and unit powered on, you’re ready to e-mail the neighbors to start a nightly WLAN party gamefest.