Time to Go Outside

Before you head up to the installation site, one last item needs to be created, purchased, or built: the solar panel mounting system. A solar panel mount can vary greatly in price depending on options. A high-end mount costing hundreds of dollars can be automatically or manually tilted during different seasons to account for the angle the Sun’s rays strike the panel. If you are in low sunlight areas, an adjustable mount like this may be the best option to maximize exposure. If you want to go crazy, robotic mounting systems can be found that track the sun as it moves across the sky during the day. If you happen to be in an area where sunlight is plentiful, a fixed mount is less costly and easy to build.

Building a Mounting Bracket

You need to determine the installation angle before building a fixed-angle mount. For most installations a tilt angle of 45 degrees is sufficient. For systems at latitudes higher than 45 degrees from the Earth’s equator, a panel tilt of 60 degrees or more is necessary.

Building a mounting system out of angle iron is cheap and easy. The structure dimensions are shown in Figure 9-17.To accommodate the SP75 solar panel, the mount was cut into 21-inch long angles, with 15-inch horizontal and vertical braces. The side connectors were cut in two feet lengths.



Fortunately, the SP75 panel came with custom mounting rails designed to hold the panel down by pressure, without the use of drilling or bolts. The entire structure was bolted together and stands ready to accept the SP75, as shown in Figure 9-18.

Sinking the Pole

A pole mount was chosen for this project because of high availability and low cost. Other in-the-field mounts include guyed tower and cinder-block secured frames. These alternatives are available from most wireless equipment distributors.

When using a basic 2-inch diameter pole, you should dig at least a 36-inch deep hole to securely mount the pole. It will be supporting upwards of 100 pounds and in order to ensure that it tolerates mid-range wind conditions, we strongly recommend that you cement this pole into the ground. This will make for a sturdy and professional installation.

Select a location on the site that will offer the widest coverage area in the spots you will most need it. For instance, you may be able to install this gear in the center of your coverage radius, but due to terrain features or landscaping that could reduce sun hours, other spots may be more suitable. Ensure that shade or shadows will not fall across the solar panel. Anticipate the Sun’s angle during winter and summer months.

Once you have settled on the perfect spot, you will need to dig a hole at least 3 feet deep and 3 feet in diameter. Mix adequate amount of concrete as specified by your local hardware store specialist and fill the hole completely. Slip the pole into the hole filled with concrete and use a level or plumb bob to make sure that the pole is truly vertical.Wait overnight for concrete to set before proceeding to the next step.

After sufficient time has elapsed and you are comfortable with the hardness of the concrete, go ahead and cover up the concrete with dirt to hide the base and help restore the natural surroundings.

Mounting the Equipment

The placement of all of the components on the pole is not critical, but needs to be planned for space. The diagram in Figure 9-19 shows the components of this system and how they are located on the pole. Place the solar panel at a height that makes it inconvenient for critters to climb on and low enough that birds will not feel comfortable roosting for an extended time.

The goal is to minimize scratches and keep the panel as clean as possible. At least two people should work together to mount this equipment to the pole. Safety is paramount when working on heavy equipment. One or two people should hold the equipment in place while another tightens down the hardware.

The equipment will be attached to the pole using U-bolts. Mount the mounting system to the pole, leaving the solar panel to the side for the time being. You will connect the solar panel last. When attaching the panel mount structure, ensure the panel will point due South once attached. Use heavy-duty U-bolts to bolt the structure to the pole (see Figure 9-20).

The control cabinet is next. Remove extra components if necessary to reduce weight while mounting. Keeping the batteries aside is a good idea. Removing the other components is optional. Once again, use heavy-duty U-bolts or other appropriate fasteners to secure the cabinet in place. Figure 9-21 shows the cabinet in place behind the panel mount structure.

Once you have completed the mounting of the Cabinet, open the door and slightly rock the Cabinet side-to-side to verify its sturdiness. With the cabinet installed and secured, install the batteries and attach any wiring that was disconnected before the move.

Mounting the Antennas

The antennas should be mounted as high as possible on the pole. Direction will be determined by the coverage area and uplink source. If possible, try to keep the antenna from casting shadows over the panel. This cannot always be avoided. Select low-profile or “shadow-friendly”




antennas if possible. For example, a parabolic grid antenna or Yagi will cast less of a shadow as compared to a panel antenna. U-bolts will be used to fasten the antennas to the pole. Some antennas use articulating mounts for angle adjustment. Other antennas may have built-in electrical down-tilt. Check the specifications for your antennas and mount them as needed.

When mounting antennas for different radios as you are doing here, interference becomes a major factor. One method of reducing radio interference is by adjusting the polarity of the signals to be 90 degrees apart. That is, set up one antenna in a vertical polarization, with the other using a horizontal polarization. The antenna documentation will denote polarization.

In Figure 9-22, the parabolic grid antenna is vertically polarized, while this particular sector antenna from SuperPass.com is electrically designed for horizontal polarization (even though it’s vertically mounted).

To further reduce interference, you can use signal filters on the antenna lines. Filters made for specific channels of the 802.11b spectrum are available at a cost of a few hundred dollars each. Remember to make the antenna connections water-tight. Electrical tape is a fair alternative, but since this is a remote site, and support calls would require a special trip, the best solution is

sealant tape. At ten dollars a roll, it’s not cheap, but it is the best product out there for this task. For comparison, Figure 9-23 shows the tape in place on the top antenna connector.

Mounting the Solar Panel

The final step is to place the solar panel reverently onto the mounting structure and bolt it down (see Figure 9-24). Keep the panel covered with an opaque material when you’re attaching the electrical wiring. Use a large piece of cardboard, a beach towel, or anything that covers the surface entirely.

After the panel is securely in place, attach the conduit to the junction box on the underside of the solar panel. And connect the black wire to the negative () terminal and the red wire to the positive () terminal. Do the same on the charge controller attachment points. Follow the precautions and directions included with the solar panel you are using. The electrical attachment points in the junction box may vary widely with each manufacturer and product.

Remember that the panel creates electricity when illuminated by sunlight. The voltage from a single 12-volt panel is not considered a shock hazard, but to avoid sparks and possible damage, do not short the leads while attaching the panel connections to the charge controller.