Perusing the Parts List
We broke the parts list for this project into
two very logical sections: one for the transmitter, and one for
the receiver and the kart body on which the receiver is mounted.
Go-kart transmitter parts list
The transmitter (see its schematic in Figure
11-2) includes the following parts
(several of which are shown in Figure 11-4):
150 ohm resistor (R1)
Infrared encoder (IC1)
We use a Reynolds Electronics Tiny-IR Encoder IC
because it requires less circuitry than similar ICs. Optional
ICs are listed in the upcoming section, “Taking It Further.”
5 volt regulator (VR1) (LP2950 5 volt regulator or similar)
4.7 microfarad electrolytic capacitor (C1)
IR LED, TSAL7200 (LED1)
Note that various other IR LEDs will work;
www.rentron.com
has a
useful listing of similar IR LEDs on its site.
3-pin, 4 MHz ceramic resonator (X1)
2-pin resonators look an awful lot like 3-pin
resonators, so be careful when you’re ordering from one of those
catalog: Read the small print so that you get the right one for
this project.
Breadboard
LED panel mount socket (size T-1
3⁄4)
Four pack of AA batteries with snap connector
Five 2-pin terminal blocks
Enclosure (RadioShack part #270-1806 or similar)
Velcro
An assortment of different lengths of prestripped short 22 AWG
wire
You can cut and strip the wire yourself, but for
short lengths, we find it much easier to use the prestripped
wire. If you have any kind of a life at all, spending time
endlessly stripping wires just isn’t worth your while!
Go-kart receiver/chassis parts list
The receiver and go-kart chassis (see the
schematic in Figure 11-3) use the following parts (several of
which are shown in Figures 11-5 and 11-6):
IR detector PNA4602M
Various other IR detectors will work. If you
want to try another, you can find a listing of IR detectors at
www.rentron.com.
Decoder (IC1) (Reynolds Tiny-IR Decoder)
5 volt regulator (VR1) (LM7805 5 volt regulator or similar)
Inverter (IC2) (SN74F04 or similar)
H-bridge (IC3) (L293D or similar)
3 pin, 4 MHz ceramic resonator (X1)
Three 10 microfarad electrolytic capacitors (C1, C3, C5)
Three 0.1 microfarad ceramic capacitors (C2, C4, C6)
Four 2 pin terminal blocks
Two 4 packs of AA batteries
Two DC gear motors (MR, ML) (GM2 with 25⁄8"
wheels or equivalent)
We use the GM2 model gear motors because the
suppliers (Hobby Engineering,
www.hobbyengineering.com;
and Solarbotics) carry wheels just made to fit them, and they
cost a bit less than
servomotors, a kind of motor often used in robots
because it offers more control of quick changes in motion.
2" swiveling castor
SPST (single-pole, single-throw) switch (S1)
Two wire clips
Use RadioShack part #278-1668 or something
similar; essentially, you can use anything that will secure the
wires without damaging them.
1⁄4"
thick expanded PVC, 9" x 61⁄2".
You could also use
1⁄4"
thick plywood.
6" x 9" plastic food container
Velcro
